Beetle Crisis Vid

Saw this video about the aircooled beetle which I came across after another ACV beetle lover posted this in one of the forums on ACV Beetle club. Enjoy viewing.

Electrical Troubleshooting / Relay

I had lots of frustrations with car electricians. I would always feel unhappy with their outputs after paying about Php350 (about USD5 +) per troubleshooting. That's lots of money stashed away from my meager income.

That forced me to study the nitty-gritty of the electrical wiring of our beetle. I would like to share with you the steps I went through understanding everything. Here are the steps that I went through:

1. First off, I made my own 12v testing bulb using clips as terminal connectors. (I filed to find small alligator clips. Then I housed the bulb in plastic tube to protect it from breaking.) I wanted to buy multimeter but I don't have time to shop.

2. I removed all the electrical tapes wrapping up wiring connections of my bug in order to see what line goes to what connection. To my amazement, there were wires that looked connected but were actually dead ones. I removed those useless connections to clean up. And instead of electrical tape, I used plastic tie to bind wire connection together especially in sections that I finished doing; and

3. I carefully studied the relays installed. I searched the net for information about relays. For example, I found Proquip informative. Actually there were various sites and forums on the net that helped me understand almost everything in relation to my beetle's wiring setup.

Although I admit that I need to learn further the intricacies of car wiring but I am almost there. In fact, one of my achievements is relay/flasher installation back to its function. Allow me to explain it. This is a replacement relay installed by the previous owner. It is functional when I checked it. You will notice that there are three studs on the relay - "L" which stands for input (see proquip) and "X" for output while "P" is input to pilot lamp. I omitted the connection from "P" post and instead wired the right and left turn signal wiring respectively to pilot lamps.

I wanted to install original beetle relay but momentarily I settle for this relay.

My next work would be replacing the fuse box which I think would be a lot harder but I know I can do it with the "help" from online sources. Now, I know that I don't need to rely on electricians anymore. Anyway, I hope this post helps you.

Rusting VW Beetles, etc.

Rusting resting volkswagen beetles and their relatives... :-)

"Ignition Timing Light"

Photo to follow. Following a suggestion by Rob and Dave on how to determine the ignition timing, I made my own "stroboscopic timing light" using the materials they mentioned as quoted below:

d. Get out your static timing light (just a 12-volt bulb in a long wire and an alligator clip on one end and any kind of a metal attachment - a pointy thing - on the other).

e. Clip the alligator clip to the connection on the coil where the thin wire (usually green) from the coil to the distributor is connected.

f. Turn on the ignition key (DO NOT START THE ENGINE!).

g. Move the engine backwards a little to take the slack out of the distributor, then clockwise again until the timing park on the pulley (7.5 ^o BTDC) lines up exactly with the split in the engine crankcase.

h. Now loosen the distributor clamp bolt (10mm) and hold the pointy end of the static timing light to ground (e.g., the engine case). Rotate the distributor clockwise until the test lamp turns off (points closed), then slowly counterclockwise until the breaker points open and the test lamp just flashes on. Tighten the distributor clamp bolt.

Note: You may find that the nut on the forward end of the clamp bolt turns when you try to loosen or tighten the clamp bolt. It is difficult to get a wrench on this 10mm nut; we finally kept it from turning by wedging a small flat-blade screwdriver against it.

After assembling my home-made timing light, I tried it and it works successfully.

Ignition Switch Thing

Last Sunday morning, shortly after reconnecting the battery’s negative terminal (I used to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery everytime I park at home), my steering wheel profusely smoked. I quickly disconnected the battery terminal to stop it. I knew right away which one was at fault – the ignition switch that I failed to replace despite signs of malfunctioning for months. That's my fault. My mechanic already suggested to replace the ignition switch with other stock or brand. Yet I decided to wait for the time to find the original replacement.

But this time, it was a "force majure". I had to replace it whether with the original part of with another ignition switch. Yesterday my wifey phoned two local retailers to know if replacement was available at what price. But we were open for any possible replacement if there was no choice left for us.

This afternoon, I went to other stores to look for other price. One store along Ramon Magsaysay Avenue had the part at Php3,000.00 (USD62.5) plus. I cringed at its price. I moved to the other retailer which presented me an alternative ignition switch - a Brazil-made part whose feature slightly differed from the original part and

was priced lower at Php1,900.00 (USD39.58). I was not convinced that it would work just find. I decided to go to the third retailer where I was lucky because the lone original part was available at Php2,200.00 (U SD45.83). Much cheaper compared to the first store’s price. Anyway, I purchased the part at Php2,100.00 (USD43.75).

Came the reassembly phase. After closely inspecting the ignition switch, I realized that perhaps, one of the reasons for the damage was that it was improperly installed. It means that the previous owner failed to know it (we bought the Beetle five years ago). The electrical part of the ignition switch comes with two pegs designed that when it comes in contact with the mechanical part of the switch, it won't turn. And then, the bigger peg comes with a hole and a tiny screw to hold it from moving. No wonder that when I removed the ignition assembly from the steering wheel, the electrical part easily popped out.

The mechanic or the electrician who installed it did not notice the tiny screw that would snugly hold in the ignition housing. That could have prolonged the service life of the part. The lesson is that if do the repair yourself, make sure to inspect the parts before installing the replacement or else you will repeat the error.

My Verdict

Hi. It's been for sometimes that I have not posted for this blog. The previous post I had was on the my axle beam and then about the condenser I installed on my beetle.

So my verdict for the Germany-made condenser is thumb's up! Although it is more expensive than the Brazil-made condenser, as far as I know, it performs well for my beetle.

This is my observation after that harsh conclusion I had on my previous post after I suspected that it was another weakest link. Since I won't convert yet to CDI, I will settle for this condenser. Till next issue, see you.

Broken Axle Beam

Our skyblue Beetle, side-by-side with a Yellow Super Beetle, at Arañas Volkswagen Auto Services (AVAS) that specializes in ACV Beetles and its siblings. Specialize means that they are equipped with tools for volkswagen repair which I don't see with other automotive shops. The shop is located along Diversion Road (Davao City). For Davao beetle owners, this shop is located after Laverna Hills Subdivision (from south).

This is my second time to have my beetle repaired here. The first time was more of carburetor cleaning and timing adjustment. I had to go back to the shop after my front left tire rubbed to the fender. The culprit was the broken axle beam. Though our subdivision road is crazily bumpy, I could not attribute the break to it (sorry I failed to get a pic of the axle because my cell was already lowbat when the axle was dismantled). We found out that it was actually a repaired or welded axle beam and as poorly done it would not meant to endure. We acquired the beetle about 5 years ago when we had only but poor idea or little information about this car. For being naive then, we paid for it now.

Replacing the axle beam cost us our savings. I would like to cry hearing the cost of the repair :-) with a smile. The new axle beam, I asked the local store, cost around Php8,000.00. Add to that the cost of bearings. In short, I had to settle for the secondhand axle beam (packed with bearings already) I got from the shop here at Php7,000.00 inclusive of labor and other two repairs (handbrake and rear bumper). What can I do? I had to do the project or else I could not use the beetle as our regular driver. That's pretty cheaper anyway I convinced myself. In one day, the beetle's repair was done.

About Condensers

One of the replacements I had on my beetle these recent days were the condensers. And so I made this initial evaluation. Before the replacement, I used to equip my beetle with a Brazil-made condenser which I bought at Php100 or near to it (I forget) from local store. Then I changed heart for Mitsubishi condenser which is smaller (see the first pic here) compared to the Brazil condenser. My evaluation with the Mitsubishi condenser is that it could not surpass the performance of the Brazil-made condenser. Anyway, while trying to look for other brand of condenser, I settled for the Mits.

Then I saw the German-made condenser. A new friend whom I met at the shop (he too owns an ACV Beetle) recommended it to me. The German condenser (Bosch), which is bigger, is Php380 from the local autopart supply. This is a lot more expensive than the Mitsubishi condenser.

So, with the decision I made, replacing my second choice condenser, I am obliged to put in record this initial observation on its performance. This morning, I drove my beetle to school for a last-minute enrollment of my kids. (The school is about 6 kilometers from home). This is the first time that I ran my beetle with the new German condenser. Unfortunately, when we went home, about 50 meters from home, the beetle's engine hesitated thrice. I sensed that the culprit were the contact points. I was already three flights from our home when my beetle finally died and I could no longer bring it to life. So I had to check the contact points and I saw the the problem - the loose contact due to the mound that developed on the points. Of course, cleaning them revived the beetle. Could it be that German-made condenser was fake? I don't know. The fact that I bought it was that I have trust in the product.

I wanted to suspect that there could be other reasons for this problem. I was thinking about the ignition coil going so hot. The small mound was tolerable, I just thought. Just maybe. An electrician friend already advised me to put it where it can be spared from so much heat that the power plant generates. The thing is that I never experienced this even when I ran the beetle in 180 plus kilometers with the first condenser I had. With the second condenser, I experienced the problem in about 30-kilometer run. My decision now is to go back to a Brazil-made condenser.

This afternoon, I went downtown to look for the Brazil-made condenser only to find out that stocks were not available. Next time, maybe. Momentarily, I will reattach the Mitsubishi condenser to help out the German-made condenser carry the ignition spark and see if this will improve the beetle's performance.

(The above discussion was based on my first impression that the culprit was the condenser. Early this evening (June 4) while going home, the beetle quit. I tried to clean the points thinking that they were the culprits and the beetle ran for few flights and died down again. I decided to remove the German condenser and put back the other condenser and the beetle ran for another flights. Along this time, I never checked my fuel line. The third time the beetle died, I checked the fuel line to find out that it was clogged. I thought this was the cause of the problem and not the condenser. (At any rate, I am not closing the possibility that I bought a defective product.) I cleaned it and succeeded in bringing the beetle to life again.)

Reintalling Handbrake

I was a little bit adventurous when I had my beetle repaired by a mechanic who has little knowledge about AC Volkswagen. One sin that I did. But I had no choice, the volkswagen shop that I knew before was a "wise guy" who charged me excessively. Another sin was when I went away for a meeting and let them work to adjust the brake. They could not make it right until I went back and told them that the way to bleeding process. It shouldstart from the rear right drum, rear left drum, front right drum and the last, front left drum, and not the other way around. With the instruction, they had made it right.

For road safety, I decided to put back the handbrake of my beetle. Good thing that parts were available from local stores so I had it reinstalled. Unfortunately, the clip that would supposedly hold together the lever and spring was not available. Anyway, the handbrake is working good (see the lever with no boot yet).

Waka's Moments

Our beetle in a parking lot of our favorite gasoline station here in Panacan. The gasoline station located at the junction of Panacan - Sasa route and Panacan - Buhangin route is accommodating when it comes to allowing us to park in their spacious parking lot. In return, I see to it that I refuel and buy lubricants only from them.

Our beetle needs thorough restoration works. Momentarily, it is serving our transport needs especially during Thursday and Sunday worship services at a locale INC in Panacan.